Just a few snaps of some of the ubiquitous cats in Greece. Some cats are kind of well looked after and fed, but others are really sick. A sad sight to see.
Bay: small, mud, 5-7m deep, not very clear, swimming ok
Amenities: Tavernas, Cocktail bar, Supermarkets, ATM, rubbish bins, boat rentals, post
We arrived in Agios Stefanos on Tuesday 18th July after planning to go to Kassiopi on the north side of north Corfu. We were beating into the wind (N / NW) at 11 knots and the swell was about 2 metres high. We had a quick look at Kassiopi but then decided it would be much to uncomfortable and unsafe to anchor here. We turned around and went back to the south coast of north Corfu to be in the lee and more sheltered from wind and waves. We anchored in 5m of water and put 30m of chain out with very good hold.
Even though the bay is small it is very busy – we were surprised to see 5 boats in here when we arrived, by night we were 11! Throughout the day there are shiploads of rental motor boats whizzing in and out of the bay, some slow down inside the bay, others not so much.
There are little wooden jetties coming out from the tavernas and friendly tavern staff is trying to wave you down to tie up on their jetty when you want to go ashore. We tied up to Fagopotion and the staff were really friendly, not only helping me with my broken arm, but they also took care of our rubbish.
As in Kalami, the big cruise liners go past at night (saw Queen Victoria one night) and you get rudely awakened by their wake. I found the swell to be not quite as bad as in Kalami, but maybe we were just lucky enough to be pointing nose first into the waves on more occasions.
After we anchored in the bay we watched a father and son team come in on a charter boat trying to anchor behind us. We watched them try about 10 times until Alistair decided to jump into the dinghy and help them out. Their problem was that they were going backwards to quick and too soon so the anchor had no chance of setting on the bottom. The next morning the father swam over and thanked us for the help and even though he checked during the night in the big swells – they felt safe because the anchor was set and holding perfectly due to our help. Later Alistair helped out an Aussie boat that was anchored too close for comfort. They agreed and said they would take a stern line ashore to be out of our way. Alistair took the dinghy and pushed the Aussie boat around so they could tie off more easily. They left the next day. Probably experiencing a very uncomfortable night being side on to all the swells…
On our second day new/more yachts came in, one of them anchoring again quite close to us (I am a bit paranoid now) but within 30 minutes their anchor had dragged so much they were out of (our) harm’s way. I don’t think they realised that they were dragging until they saw our concerned faces and fingers pointing. They tried to re-anchor twice and then gave up to move to another bay.
Never a dull moment!
Date: 4.5.2017; 6.7.-8.7.2017
Bay: Muddy, good holding once through the mud, good protection from prevailing winds, open to east, small swell from passing ferries and fishing boats coming into fishing port, 4-6m of water
Amenities: tavernas with wifi on beach, little beaches, good for swimming, one tavern offers showers and laundry facilities, hotel has a pool which can be used, small shop, supermarket and bakery
We’ve been twice to Petriti and it always makes for a beautiful sunset with a red-orange glow sweeping across the bay and over the coastline of the mainland. Fishing boats leave the port around 8pm and return early in the morning – always followed by a swarm of seagulls and their little 'pilot' vehicle. The water is clear once the mud settles after setting the anchor it’s warm and swimming is nice.
Petriti is a small town and it doesn’t take long to walk around. Well kept houses and green trees/grass and flowers complete the picture.
When we anchored here the first time early May, we were about 5 boats in the bay. In July we were 40 anchored plus the town quay/fishing port was full.
Some evenings seem to have Greek Dancing/music night and/or karaoke…. We decided to listen rather than join while enjoying Butter Chicken for dinner - karaoke that night seemed to have been Indian themed. Not judging whether it was good or bad ,just saying that it was loud.
Date: 2nd - 4th May 2017, 8th-9th July 2017
Bay: Sand and weed, good holding once through weed, open to SE, 5-12m, clear water, swell from passing ferries
Amenities: Tavernas on beach, wifi, Kayak/SUP rental, waterski/donut rides, small supermarket and shops, accomodation, boat trips, pools
Great little bay in the north of Corfu, facing Albania. It doesn't seem to get too crowded here (3 boats in May, 16 boats in July). We found there is good holding in the bay, although you should be aware of the weed and it may take a couple attempts until you find that holding underneath the sea grass. Once set, you can take the dinghy ashore and tie up to one of the little pontoons. In May, they had no planks and it was a bit of a balancing act to get across but that has been taken care of now.
Nothing is more inviting than sitting in the tavernas on the beach with a glass of white wine and watch other saling yachts (and the occasional super yacht) come and go and people having a go on the colourful SUPs that Kalami Kayaks has to offer. I had a go myself, and I loved it - didn't fall off, that's a great plus! Unfortunately, in July I couldn't do it because of my broken arm.
The water is clear and great for swimming, if you feel like a lazy beach day you can hire a lounger and umbrella for 3Euro each per day.
Again, loved the colours, loved the people!
The only downside to this anchorage is the big swell coming into the bay from passing ferries and cruising ships. Make sure all your cupboards are closed and nothing can fall over (especially at night)
Arriving in Greece we knew we had to clear in and get our official paperwork sorted. We didn’t want to leave it for too long being a non EU boat and authorities may have us on their radar. On Friday morning we left Lakka to head to a port of entry - Gouvia Marina.
Friday afternoon the cleaning lady in the Port Police office told us to come back on Saturday. When we came back on Saturday morning we were told that we needed to go to the tax office first, which is in Corfu Town, but they won’t be open on the weekend PLUS Monday was a public holiday. So we could only check in officially on Tuesday, meaning we were not really able to sail off again…
We thought it was weird that we had to go to Corfu Town, as Gouvia is supposed to be a port of entry. So we decided to do some online research to find out what we really needed to do. We started a thread in a facebook group and got about 20 different answers, we checked the Cruising Association website and got more and more confused….
Finally, we found out what we needed to do – we needed a Transit log and not a DEKPA!
This is what we found out:
Non-EU boat & non-EU residents, VAT paid on boat, also Swiss boats/residents
Go to customs office in Corfu Town, he may send you over to passport control. The passport control officer checks your passport and then sends you back to the customs office who will then take your passports / boat papers to make up the Transit log. Be careful, if you are EU citizens to tell and show him that you are not an EU resident, otherwise he will only give you a Transit Log for 1 month! The only question he asked us was how many litres of diesel we had on board. All in all it took us 40 minutes to get all the paperwork done – cost 30 Euro, the Log is valid for 18 months.
Head to the Port Police in Gouvia Marina with the Transit Log and have yourself checked into the country / port, pay another 15 Euro to the PP for whatever reason and you are free to go… that is, when you leave the marina again, you have to let the PP know. Each port/marina you go to you need to find the PP to check in and then check out again when you leave.
At the end of your stay in Greece you have to hand in the Transit Log before you leave.
EU boats & EU residents
Since April 2017 there is a facility in the 1st floor of the marina office to pay your 50 Euros for the DEKPA, take the receipt/paperwork to the PP. DO NOT go to the PP first and ask for the DEKPA, they will send you to the tax office in Corfu Town, which is completely unnecessary. Maybe by now they know better. The DEKPA is valid for 3 years and does not have to be handed back when leaving Greece.
If you are unsure, you can always ask a taxi driver. The guy who took us to customs knew everything: EU / non-EU, DEKPA, Transit Logs, where to go, how long it takes, what it costs… we should have asked him before we started our web search!
Follow Alistair and Nicola as they share their experience of traveling around the world.